Number 1

Number 1
Number One

Number 50

Number 50
Number Fifty

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Final Thoughts

How do you recap traveling the 50 states of the greatest country on earth, on the greatest motorcycle on earth? What an experience!

First of all, I love those lists that they do on sports shows or in the news paper “by the numbers” or “top ten”, so here’s my trip of the 50 states BY THE NUMBERS:

June 25 to July 25, 2010
25 actual days of riding
All 50 states and the District of Columbia
11,820 total miles
3 “Iron Butt” accomplishments:
2 – over 1500 miles in 36 hours
1 – over 1000 miles in 24 hours

Major bodies of water visited – 4 (more I think, but this will do):
Atlantic – at Mystic Bay
Pacific – at Northern California coast
Gulf of Mexico – at Pensacola Bay
Lake Michigan

Highest elevation ridden: 10,000 feet, Haleakala Crater, Maui, HI
Lowest elevation ridden: Sea level, both coast and Pensacola, FL

Ferry boats missed - 2
Rivers crossed – ya right! I know I crossed the Mississippi 4 times
Mountain ranges crossed, same as above…too many to count (but I really like the Adirondak Mountains).
Greatest display of pure power – my Harley…not really – Niagara Falls
Most majestic sight – of course…the Grand Canyon
Favorite river - Columbia
Favorite lake - Coeur d'Alene
Favorite biker bar was a tie:
The Elbow Inn, Missouri
Sultana Bar, Williams, AZ

Favorite hotel:
The Lodge, Williams, AZ
Runner up – Precious Moments Best Western, Carthage, MO

Least miles in a state – Utah (I think 4 miles), Kansas was second with about 20
Most miles in a state:
Texas, about 1145
California was about 1000

State I spent too much time in – West Virginia
Favorite roads: (in no particular order)
Highway 30, Maui, HI
Highway 14, South Washington (along Columbia Gorge)
Highway 97, Coeur d’Alene, ID (around the lake)
Highway 101, West Coast of California (Redwood Forest)
Highways 9N, 73, Lake Placid, NY
Too many others to mention

Favorite Interstate – Interstate 90 across Idaho and Montana
Best meal was a tie:
Ray’s, Seward, Alaska
The Lobster Pot, Bangor, Maine
Gallagher’s, Las Vegas, Nevada

Best state sign: New Hampshire "Live free or die"
Worst state sign: Washington DC - there isn't one.
Most dangerous state sign - a tie"
New Jersey and Washington, why would they put them in the center median...off the fast lane???

Most elusive state sign - a tie:
Pennsylvania and New York. I crossed both state boarders 4 times before I found a welcome sign...I guess we're not too welcome!

Area that surprised me the most (in a good way):
Wisconsin, Minnesota and Iowa, upper Mississippi

Biggest blessings:
New and Old riding partners
Great weather
A great running Harley (no mechanical issues)
Supportive family and friends

Ok, enough with the stats. This was a world wind trip through our amazingly beautiful country. I missed so much great stuff I can’t even begin to list it all. The “favorites” listed above are from this trip only. There are some really great biker roads around the country, like the Dragons Tail in North Carolina or 783 between Fredricksburg and Kerrville, TX . There are too many National Parks that I missed on this trip to even think about, but two of my favorites on a Harley are, Zion and Yellowstone. My favorite mountain range is the Tetons and everyone should spend a few nights in Jackson Hole, WY. Check out the statue in the square, it was sculpted by my Dad’s Uncle Bud.

This journey was a blessing to me in so many ways. It came during a time when I needed to get away, or maybe I just wanted to run from life. But regardless of the motivation, it gave me time to think…and pray a lot about my future and that of my family. It also gave me the opportunity to see so much of our country in a way that most people never do. I would also like to say what a privilege it was to be able to see some friends along the way, and how sorry I am that I had to miss so many people that I love all across the country. Also, what a true joy it was to be able to ride with my son, Tommy, in Hawaii and Alaska. It was so great to ride with my new friends from London. And of course, my brother in law Robert is one of the greatest friends and mentors any person could ever ask for, I'm so glad to have been able to ride with him and DeeDee on this trip. I can not encourage you enough…get out there and ride. You will see, smell, feel and experience things you would otherwise never have the chance to. Experience the wonder of our country, drive the back roads and explore the out of the way places. Spend time alone. Wonder what’s around the next corner, over the next hill or how the guy in that little run down house out in the corn field makes a living. Heck, try to figure out how you can buy 6 ears of corn for $2 at your local grocery store! Take in the beauty and all that our amazing country has to offer.

Most of all, I would like to encourage you to get out and do something. Everyone has dreams, successful people act on those dreams but so many people just dream…and never act. Don’t wait, there will never be a better time than right now to live life.

I’m sure I could go on writing this blog for a really long time, but now I think I’m just being indulgent. One of the biggest blessings of this trip has been sharing it with you, so thank you for reading my blog and for the notes of encouragement along the way. May God bless your life…and travels.

As Michael Buble' would say..."I wanna go home"

Before I get to my final thoughts of the trip I need to give a quick recap of my last day on the road. I spent the night last night in Raton, NM. I went out to load my bike this morning and found a lovely, steady rain. So I grabbed my rain gear and headed back into my room. After getting all suited up, I headed out at about 5:45 AM. 10 minutes later it stopped raining, although I was in clouds and fog until the Texas boarder. I made good time and was able to take off my rain gear at my first fuel stop and remove my coat and chaps at my second fuel stop. After that, I was just working on my tan and making time. I think Texas may have just passed Montana for the highest average speed. I calculated it, and I averaged 63 MPH...including stops today. I was like a trail horse that gets a scent of the barn and there is nothing that's going to slow you down from getting there. I was exhausted when I got to my new rent house, but thrilled to see my son at home. After a quick shower, I went to dinner with my kids and grandkids. So wraps up my 50 state journey! My next blog update will be my final thoughts on the trip.

Exhausted, but home

My favorite moment of the trip!

Saturday, July 24, 2010

50 down...I'm going home!

Number 48

Number 49

Number 50!

Where do I start to recap a day like today? It was simply amazing. I started out early, 5:30 AM from Rapid City, South Dakota. I headed south on 79 and then picked up 385 south. I got to Hot Springs, SD at 6:30, which is 5:30 Pacific time and had traveled a total of 1,027 miles in a 24 hours period...earning a second "Iron Butt" award. I traveled on from there into Nebraska, connecting with highway 20 west into Wyoming. I picked up Interstate 25 south and traveled into Colorado...#50! I got all the way through Colorado and stopped in Raton, New Mexico...also earning my second "Saddle Sore" award having traveled 1,644 miles in 36 hours. Ok, enough with the stats.

The weather was great today, a little on the chilly side...but nothing compared to the last two days. It was clear and the roads were great. Going through this part of South Dakota brought back some really nice memories of the rides I took two years ago out of Sturgis. I passed the turn off for Mt. Rushmore as well as the park where Custer made his last stand. It was actually hard to keep going with out taking a few side trips, but I had miles to go before I slept... (anybody know that poem?)

Nebraska was quick. I just hit the corner, a total of about 70 miles. The landscape in the Northwest corner of this state is beautiful and dramatic. There are huge boulders sticking up out of the ground, which looks like giant flowing waves of grass and wild flowers.


I was getting pretty excited by this time. As soon as I hit the 1,000 mile mark in 24 hours I started to realize that I was going to be completing my goals today. I sent text to several of you at each stop and I'm sure you could tell that my excitement was building with each mile. I appreciate all the responses, they really got me pumped up. I've spent quite a bit of time in Wyoming on my Harley and really love this state. It has some of the most beautiful terrain in the country. The part I drove through today was not... However, I did see this cool water tower. It's one of only 6 that still remain in the world. It reminded me of a TV show I used to watch when I was a kid called "Petty coat junction".


So I connected with Interstate 25, which is a great road for making time...but not very interesting, except for the magnificent views of the Rocky Mountains...which is something to behold. It was hazy today so it make the mountains look like giant ships rising from the fog. Crossing into Colorado was a huge relief, to have completed my goal without incident. But it was also very cool because Colorado is absolutely one of my favorite states. If I couldn't live in Texas, I'd live in Colorado. I didn't originally plan to end up with Colorado being my last state, but I'm glad it worked out this way. I got a little hung up in traffic going through Denver and Colorado Springs, but other than that all the roads were wide open and moved very fast. In Colorado Springs I love the views of the Air Force Academy and Pikes Peak, which are great even from the highway.


In Colorado Springs I was able to catch a quick cup of coffee with some really great friends, Riaan and Selena. It was very special to get to see them and they have been amazingly supportive of me this last year. I've done some travel with Riaan over the years and this year I had the honor to travel with him to Egypt and China.


After coffee I got back on the road and headed south to Raton pass, a place I've been through many times. Colorado has been a favorite vacation spot for my family for most of my life. This drive brings back so many wonderful memories of trips with my kids, parents and in-laws.

This has been a wonderful journey and I'm looking forward to the last leg tomorrow and getting home. I'm going to do a recap with some thought about my trip on the blog tomorrow, so please check back. I want to thank all of you that have kept up with my blog, and especially those that posted comments. They made the nights in the hotel room much nicer and it made me feel like I was actually writing this to someone instead of just for myself. Thanks again for taking this journey with me, and check in tomorrow for the summary post. Blessings to you...

Big Sky, Big Miles




This morning I left Coeur d"Alene at 5:30 AM after having a really nice visit with some friends there yesterday. I drove out on Highway 97...into the sun...but what an amazing road. Connected with Interstate 90 through Idaho and Montana. It was without a doubt the coldest day yet on my trip. It's the only day I traveled when it never got warm enough to ride without a coat. In fact, I was shivering until about 1:00. But the roads made up for it. I connected with Interstate 94 in Billings up to Miles City where I took highway 12 over to Bowman, North Dakota. From there I headed south (towards home) on highway 85 into South Dakota, through Sturgis connecting again with Interstate 90 over to Rapid City. I almost titled this blog "so close but so far away". I rode a total of 970 miles today, my longest of the trip, but I missed a second "Iron Butt" award by only 30 miles! They do have another award called the "Saddle Sore" award, which is 1500 miles in two days, which I have done once already on this trip and will easily do again tomorrow.

The fabulous road around lake Coeur d'Alene

Interstate 90 is one of the most beautiful Interstates in our Country. On the western side of Montana you drive through the mountains and trees. All along the Interstate you are driving next to the Clark Fork River. This is such a beautiful ride. The Interstate curves with the bends in the river and flows up and down the mountain passes. For an Interstate, it is truly one of the best. When you get to Billings you head a little north on 94 and lose the Clark Fork River, but you pick up the Yellowstone River which this Interstate follows in the same pattern. The terrain really starts to flatten out as you pass Billings and turns into this beautiful rolling farm land. This is an area where they grow mostly grains, there are some "crops", must mostly just massive fields of green and gold grain. Another great thing about this highway is that it runs through states that have no helmet laws...and the speed limit is 75 MPH...big pluses.

The western Montana mountains

In Miles City we pick up highway 12, which is a great two lane state highway in amazing shape. The speed limit on this little road was 70 MPH and I only saw two cars the entire time. Needless to say, I made great time. When I crossed into North Dakota the terrain started to change. There were these fascinating rock structures that had striated colors, very beautiful. I was skirting rain to the north, but made it to Bowman before the rain and I turned south on 85 and easily outran the rain. Highway 85 was not nearly as good a road as highway 12, but I still made good time. The sun set about 45 minutes after I got on 85, so there was some interesting driving until I got to Rapid City. It was a beautiful sunset and the moon was spectacular over the South Dakota landscape.

Cool rock formations in North Dakota

Alway's blacktop over concrete

A nice full moon over South Dakota

All in all, a great day. I'm glad I was able to cover so many miles and set myself up for a good finish to the trip. I've hit 47 of the 50 states. Tomorrow I'll ride through the last 3 and then on Sunday I'll wrap up the trip with a nice...familiar, ride back into Dallas. Please keep reading the blog and give me your comments, I'm going to write a recap with some of my top items and thoughts after I get back.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Rivers and Lakes



Today was one of the most beautiful rides possible. I had the pleasure of driving two of my favorite roads in all the United States. Washington highway 14 and Idaho highway 97.

I left Salem, Oregon at 5:30 AM, once again it was very cold. I had good gear so it was bearable. I headed north on Interstate 5 into the southern part of Washington. The Columbia river splits the boarder between Oregon and Washington. There is a major highway on the south, or Oregon side of the river, and on the north or Washington side is a small two lane highway, 14. This road runs along the Columbia River Gorge for about 100 miles and it is breathtaking. When you get on the highway, a few miles down the road you come around a corner and you are at Cape Horn...it literally took my breath away. It was actually hard to focus on the road it is so beautiful. The highway winds and molds to the topography of the gorge. It flows up hundreds of feet above the river, then drops down to water level going in and out...and through in some sections. It is truly one of the greatest "Harley Roads" in America. As you drive along this road there are spectacular views of Mt. Hood along the way, it's completely snow capped right now.


After about 100 miles, I slanted off the river and head north east on 395, eventually connecting with Interstate 90 to Spokane. In this part of Washington the land turns into vast rolling meadows of golden grain. There is no way a picture can capture the beauty of these fields because much of my fascination with them was their size...but more the movement of the grain in the wind. It was like waves of a golden sheet being put on a bed. They just flowed back and forth in the wind. Also, they were the larges fields I've ever seen. They went on for almost 100 miles...just massive.


I crossed over into Idaho and into Coeur d'Alene, one of my favorite spots in this country. The lake is amazing, but the road (highway 97) ranks at the top of my list for favorite roads. This is the second time I've had the opportunity to drive this road and if you've never done it you are missing out on one of the most beautiful roads in America. The area reminds me a lot of Lake Como in Italy. It is very secluded with small cities, more like villages spotting the shoreline. There is a single road that goes around the south side of the lake. I had the great pleasure of meeting good friends from Dallas, Tom, Dawn and their kids, that are spending a few weeks here. They hosted me for a wonderful dinner and one of the nicest places I've stayed on this journey.



I'm in the home stretch now. The end of this odyssey is in sight. I've got some stuff I've got to take care of back in Dallas, so I'm going to attempt some monster day's of driving over the next few days. Please keep checking the blog as we count down the last remaining states on this long journey. Blessings...

Thursday, July 22, 2010

North by Northwest

All I can say is WOW!

If you've never driven the coastal highways in California and Oregon you're missing a great treat. My ride today was on one of my favorite highways in all of the United States. Today we headed out of Ukiah, CA and headed north on highway 101 to Crescent City, then took 199 across the Oregon boarder over to Interstate 5 and up to Salem.

First of all, it was Cold, Cold, Cold...56 degrees when we left the hotel, then it got even colder. It's amazing, two day's ago it was 97 degrees at 5:30 AM when we left the hotel in Las Vegas...a 40 degree swing. Right after we left the hotel we came across a nice sized herd of Elk grazing in a filed. Shortly after that we entered the Redwood Forest. What a unique opportunity to travel this highway on my Harley. The road is curvy with hills and goes by these giant trees, truly so big they defy description. When my kids were little we took a family trip, our "west coast trip"...probably the best family vacation we ever had. Anyway, we visited the Redwood Forest on that trip, but it still blew me away to see these giants again.


Going up the 101 we passed a number of trucks hauling cut trees as well as finished wood right from the mills. It was mostly redwood, but there was also an assortment of other woods. The smells of Pine, Redwood and Eucalyptus trees as well as fresh cut grass were all along our route. The main sensation I felt was...Cold. I can't describe sufficiently the majesty of the "Avenue of the Giants" through the Redwood Forest. It was also interesting to see these wood mills scattered along the route, they had huge piles of cut trees and they had sprinklers set up watering the piles of whole trees. I'm not sure why they do that...so if anyone knows please enlighten us.

The beauty continued as the highway turned toward the coast. We crossed the Rainbow Ridge and drove along the Northern California coast. It was very overcast and cold, but the rugged beauty of this part of the country can't be masked by fog or clouds. The road followed the outline of the coast and went through several small seaside villages and towns. I'm not sure if the weather is like this year round, but what a magnificent place to live.


When we got on highway 199 we started driving along a beautiful river that wound through the mountains. The name of the river is the Smith River and apparently it was named the cleanest river in America. I'd believe it after seeing how clear the water was. The gorge next to the road was very deep and there were rapids all along our route. You could clearly hear the water from the road.


We crossed into Oregon, my 42nd state. The terrain continued to be beautiful, with rolling hills covered with trees, although once we connected with Interstate 5 it became less interesting. There was a major accident on 5 and the interstate was closed about 5 miles from our exit. We "bypassed" the line and got to the exit rather quickly. Tim was extremely creative and we found a side street that got us around the traffic with virtually no delay. Which was great because we were meeting a friend, Lindsay, for dinner in Salem. It was really great to see Lindsay and to meet Blake, the "special man" in her life. I'm just sorry that the pace of this trip has not allowed me to spend sufficient quality time with so many friends across the country.


Number 42


Today was my last day with riding partners. I really enjoyed riding with our friends from England, Robert and DeeDee and Tim and Nikki...and Kristen. The companionship and support was just what I needed right now and having someone to share the road with on a trip of this length has really helped. I said good bye to Tim and Nikki tonight and will head out on my own tomorrow for the final leg of my journey. I expect to finish the trip in the next 4 or 5 days, so keep checking the blog for a countdown to number 50! Blessings and good night.

Tuesday, July 20, 2010

Beautiful California

One last picture before I split off from Robert and DeeDee

Today was such a wonderful day. I've been traveling around this state, California, my entire life...since I was born here. But today was just perfect. The weather was cool when we left Sierra Madre at 5:30 in the morning. In fact, we had to keep our coats or sweaters on most of the day. After saying good bye to DeeDee and Robert; Tim, Nikki and I headed west on the 210 and then north on Interstate 5. We made great time and avoided all the traffic delays. (I love going over the grapevine) California is such an amazing state when it comes to it's landscape. Yesterday we were in the unforgiving desolation of the Mojave Desert, and today we were traveling through the beautiful San Gabriel Mountains, then north past San Francisco Bay and into Napa Valley.

The texture on the mountains was so vibrant and real, they looked like soft rolling mounds of tan and golden velvet. I took one picture that came out pretty good and shows what I was seeing.


There must be some type of war going on over water in this part of California because there were signs all along the highway about Congress turning the area into a dust bowl. It was fascinating because for hundreds of miles the hills and fields were covered with this golden grass. I couldn't help but think of one of my favorite songs, "Fields of Gold" by Eva Cassidy. (my dad loved that song too) The deep green orchards, vineyards and crops were a stark contrast to the tan and gold fields and hills.

The smells in the farming area's were strong, of assorted crops. The sweet onions and garlic were the most potent...besides the smells from the few livestock feeding lots. There was also the smell of hay and alfalfa, which was being harvested. I was fascinated by how much work it is, and the coordination needed to harvest all the crops grown across this Country. It is harvest time for those small, oval shaped, tomato's. I must have passed a hundred tractor trailers moving those tomato's from the fields to some plan north on Interstate 5.

When we got farther north we crossed over the mountains into the Oakland area. As we were passing through the mountain range we went by a huge wind farm. We really got beat up in the wind through that pass, it was as rough as I've experienced on a motorcycle. Once we got through the pass we had a great, but brief, view of the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay.


We decided to go through Napa Valley, absolutely one of my favorite places on earth. The drive through the valley alone is worth it, but we decided to make a stop at Rubicon. What a great experience we had, they treated us like royalty and the wine was outstanding. Since I've had the opportunity to visit Napa a number of times, I'll throw in a pitch for a few of my favorite spots. For wineries I highly recommend Rubicon, Krupp Brothers and Del Dotto. To eat, Coles is my favorite but I also love the Culinary Institute of America. To stay, the Silverado is nice, but the Del Dotto cottage on vineyard 887 is tops in my book. So many great memories in this area. I'll give one last pitch, there is a new wine coming out from Wellspring called Vintessa. It should be bottled this month, and I'd say it's one of the best wines to come out of Napa in a long time. It was crafted by a group of Texans using some of the most sought afters grapes from an area in Napa called Atlas Peak. You can get in a pre order for this wine at Landon Winery in downtown McKinney, try it, you won't be disappointed.


After we were done at Rubicon we continued north on highway 29 then a great, tree covered, twisty road, highway 128 out of Calistoga to the 101. We made it as far as Ukiah and needed to stop for the night. It was a beautiful day of exploring California and I'm really looking forward to our coastal drive tomorrow. Have a great night...talk with you tomorrow.